RIGGING GUIDE GETTING STARTED WITH YOUR J/35

Editor's Note: From pages 21-31 from a 1987 Owners Manual. Use at own risk. May contain errors from optical character recongnition conversion!

RIGGING GUIDE

The running and standing rigging supplied with your boat are designed for eff iciency. A wealth of ocean racing and cruising experience has gone into the deck layout to make sail and boat handling as safe and easy to handle by a couple as R is for a racing crew.

Rigging the mast is a complex procedure and is best handled by a qualified marine rigger. Be sure to remind the dealer ff you are installing marine electronics that may need to be wired and mounted on the mast.

Have the yard step the mast and hand tighten the rig to prevent it from swaying excessively at dockside.

TUNING THE RIG AT REST

1)Hand tighten all stays to prevent the mast from wobbling.

2)Measure aft equidistant from the bow to a position in line with the shroud

chainplates and make a mark on the hull sheerline.

3)Using the centerline genoa halyard or the main halyard, attach a tape measure to the shackle and pull R to the masthead. Then measure side to side to the marks on the hull to center the mast athwartships; by hand tightening the upper shrouds. Once the mast is centered, further tighten the uppers with tools until you have difficulty spinning the turnbuckle screw. Then, STOP, before you risk the chance of stripping the threads. Double-check the position of the mast head.

a.Tighten the lower shrouds even turns ( one turn =360 degrees) to straighten mast and establish the correct amount of pre-bend.

b. The middle section of the mast is held in place by "Diagonal shrouds" which attach just below the upper spreader, pass through the lower spreader and down to the chainplate. Most people tend to overtighten these ontheirfirsttry. Start by HAND tightening the Diagonal shroud to eliminate slack only. For final tuning, see the section on "Tuning for Speed."

4)Check the amount of mast rake. Your headstay length should leave you approximately 12' of rake measured from a plumb line from the masthead (the main halyard with a weight attached) perpendicular to the mast at deck level. Adjust the headstay turnbuckle to achieve the necessary rake.

5)Tighten the backstay turnbuckle so the backstay is just snug, such that, if you grab the backstay and "swing" it in a circle; the circle it prescribes in the air is under one foot.

THE BOOM

Rigging the boom is straightforward (FIG. 6). Run the reef lines so the red line (porl) is led through the port sheaves and the green line (starboard) is led through the starboard sheaves at both the outboard end and the gooseneck. Check the fit for the boom vang on the boom bale. it may need a little filing to smoothen out any sharp edges.

VANG CONTROLS

The HALL QUICK VANG is a mechanically operated spring loaded boom vang with a Harken block and tackle purchase system. This vang system allows for quick and easy adjustment and acts as a boom topping lift at anchor. The vang is aff ixed to the vang plate welded underneath the boom and to the mast at the vang gooseneck located just above the mast collar.

HYDRAULIC BACKSTAY CONTROLS

The J/35 is equipped with Navtec hydraulics to help you fine tune your rig and sails for optimum performance. These hydraulics are simple, easy to maintain, and highly reliable.

The J/35 has standard a Navtec Integral hydraulic backstay cyllner with built-in pump. Installation is simple, attach the square black portion with handle to the stem backstay chainplate and the stainless fork to the backstay. Operating the unit is a matter of tightening the crew valve and pumping the handle. To release the pressure simply unscrew the valve.

OPTIONAL REMOTE HYDRAULIC BACKSTAY

This adjustable, remotely controlled hydraulic cylinder system for the backstay is comprised of a control panel on the forward cockpit face, the backstay cyliner, and the hydraulic fluid reservoir (see "Bleeding the System").

The HYDRAULIC PANEL is the control center for the hydraulic system. The hydraulic pump (operated by the handle) draws fluid from the reservoir and gets distributed to the cylinder selected by the control panel switch.

The BACKSTAY CYLINDER is aff ixed to the S.S. backstay tang on the transom and to the Navtec turnbuckle on the backstay. In order to make the cylinder fit, you must pull out the S.S. shaft and fully extend ft. This cylinder needs no pressure to extend once installed as the natural pressure of the rig will do this.

"BLEEDING THE SYSTEM" is the final stage of installing the hydraulics.

Two people are needed to perform this operation.

1)Get a 10 inch long 1/2 inch diameter clear tube and a funnel. Firmly attach the funnel to one end of the tube.

2) Insert the tube into the opening atop the hydraulic fluid reservoir and hold the funnel end 4'above the cockpit sole.

3)Take the cans of non-detergent #40 weight motor oil and slowly pour into the funnel, taking care that copious amounts of rags are handy to wipe up any oil spill at the reservoir. Fill the reservoir completely, usually four quarts of oil.

4)Have one person go to the backstay and unscrew the hose fitting ... be sure to have a plastic bucket under the end of the hose and plenty of rags.

5)Open the large thumbscrew on the panel by turning counter-clockwise 1/2 to 3/4 turn. This opens the valve to the hose and cylinder system. 6) Pump the handle continuously until fluid squirts out the hose in a steady stream (this ensures you elminate all air bubbles), then stop pumping. 7) Attach the hose fitting to the backstay cylinder fitting and screw on 1 1/2 turns only.

8)Pump the handle at the hydraulic panel again to get fluid flowing out of the threads on the backstay cylinder fitting until there are no bubbles. If there are none after three to four pumps, then firmly screw down the hose fitting on to the backstay fitting.

9)Finally, check the whole system by pumping the cylinder completely to ensure they are working. If you notice any time lag when the cylinder is pumped to the maximum, try releasing R completely and again pump to the maximum. If the time lag persists, ie. the cylinder doesn't continuously close as the hydraulic handle is pumped, then you may have "air' in the lines. In that case, repeat steps #4 to #8 to remove the air bubble in the cylinder/hose system.

SAIL CONTROL SYSTEMS

The sail control systems are designed for maximum efficiency and complete ease of handling, making for relaxing shorthanded sailing in most wind and sea conditions.

MAINSAIL:

The main is easily controlled from the cockpit to simplify singlehanding. Critical controls, including mainsail halyard and mainsheet are adjustable within the confines of the cockpit; especially by the skipper.

The MAIN HALYARD (FIG. 8) exits the mast on the port side, runs through a turning block at the mast collar and then aft along the portside cabin top through the halyard stopper to the cockpit halyard winch.

HINT- If you are having difficulty running the halyard lines through blocks and stoppers, try wrapping a one foot piece of duct tape lengthwise around the end of the rope... this flat piece of tape leads through the stoppers far easier, plus it helps pull through the fat piece of rope.

The MAINSHEET (FIG. 7) is a "cascading'tackle system with a 4:1 fine-tune purchase trimming the tail of the 4:1 rough-tune purchase. Be sure to put a "stopper knot" like a figure-eight at both ends of the sheet.

The MAINSHEET TRAVELER (FIG. 7) consists of a traveler bar and traveler car. The car is controlled by a 4:1 purchase system led to either side of the cockpit. Put the spliced eye of the traveler control line (the fixed end) into the upper portion of the double block at the end of the traveler. This requires removing the bolt, inserting the plastic spacer into the rope eye, and replacing the bolt. Be sure the line exiting the lower sheave cage leads into the cleat correctly, if not, repeat the above steps.

The MAINSAIL OUTHAUL (FIG. 6) is adjusted underneath the boom and comes pre-assembled.

The MAINSAIL REEF LINES (FIG. 6) are designed to be fully functional from the cockpit. The mainsail tack reef lines lead from an eye on the port side of the mast below the gooseneck, up through the tack cringle in the mainsail, and back down through a cheek block mounted on the starboard side of the mast, down through a mast collar turning block, then aft to the starboard cockpit cabintop winches.

The mainsail clew reef lines exit the forward end of the boom, lead aft through the mast collar turning block to the port cockpit cabintop winches.

The CHECKSTAY SYSTEM is useful for upwind sailing to keep the mast from pumping in choppy conditions and to help fine tune the mast bend. The system includes a large wire and block and tackle. Set up the backstays by inserting the tee terminal end in the mast and then inserting the rubber retaining plugs. Rig the hardware as shown in FIG. 7B.

GENOA:

The GENOA HALYARD (FIG. 8a) exit the mast on either side,run through a turning block at the mast collar and lead aft to the cabin top halyard winches.

The GENOA SHEET is attached to the headsail by a bowline and, depending on the headsail size, led aft outside the shrouds to the genoa fairlead along the side-decks, then straight into the primary winches.

The GENOA SHEET WINCHES are the primary winches located at the forward end of the cockpit. They are two-speed self-tailing winches designed to allow virtually anyone to "grind" in a full-sized genoa.

The winches are installed by the factory and "ready-to-go", so no special installation or care is required to begin sailing immediately.

The GENOA SHEET TRACKS are located port and starboard along the cabin sides. Adjustable genoa lead blocks are supplied which should be slid onto the track.

SPINNAKER EQUIPMENT:

The SPINNAKER HALYARDS (FIG. 8A) exit both sides of the mast and lead through a turning block at the mast collar to the halyard winches.

The SPINNAKER SHEETS (FIG. 8A) lead from the clew of the spinnaker aft outside the lifelines through the spinnaker sheet spreacher blocks (spinnaker blocks on the rail) turning forward to the fairlead blocks with integral stoppers along the rail and then to the primary cockpit winches or secondary cabin-top winches.

The SPINNAKER -GUY SHEETS (FIG. BA) are led aft inside the lifelines to the spinnaker afterguy blocks (the larger diameter, low friction blocks) located amidships on the rail and straight into the primary cockpit winches.

The SPINNAKER POLE FOREGUY (downhaul) (FIG. 8A) is led from the end of the spinnaker pole down through the foreguy block and runs aft along either side of the cabin top to Harken cleats on the cabinside.

The SPINNAKER POLE TOPPING LIFT (uphaul) (FIG. 8A) is led aft along the starboard cabin top, through the forward bank of stoppers.

TUNING FOR SPEED

Tuning is a straightforward, step-by-step process which achieves a predictable end; a boat tuned for maximum eff iciency and safety.

First, let's briefly discuss theory. Heim balance is a function of both sail trim and mast rake. The latter is critical because R has the strongest affect on "weather or leeward helm" (the amount one must turn the rudder to keep the boat going straight). The principles which produce this tendency are Center of Effort(CE) and Center of Lateral Resistance(CLR). Center of Effort is a spot on your sailplan which indicates the sum of all aerodynamic pressure; usually halfway up and one third back on the mainsail. The Center of Lateral Resistance is a similar hydrodynamic pressure point on the keel. Whether or not a yacht develops weather helm is a function of where the CE is in relation to the CLR. If they both align vertically, the boat will have neutral helm. If the CE is aft of the CLR, you'll notice the wind pivots the bow into the wind, creating weather helm. Have you ever noticed why boats put up small steadying sails on the backstay at anchor? This forces the CE far aft of the CLR and makes the boat "weathervane" into the wind. Should the CE be forward of the CLR, the bow wants to blow away from the wind, developing the most disconcerting (and dangerous) tendency, leeward helm.

Consequently, mast rake (the fore and aft angling of the mast) is the primary determinant of weather helm. Aft rake moves the CE aft, creating more weather helm, while forward rake creates more leeward helm. What is the proper amount of weather helm and how is it determined? Sail upwind in a straight line, adjust the sails for proper upwind trim and let go of the helm. The boat should turn slowly into the wind.

In order to apply the foregoing principles follow this step-by-step process to tune the rig. Be sure you have consulted with your sailmaker In regards to the correct amount of "pre-bend" In the mast ... R determines the location of your mast-step. In any case, it's recommended that you,

CONTACT YOUR SAILMAKER AND ASK HIM TO GO SAILING WITH

YOU TO CHECK THE TUNING AND THE FIT OF THE SAILS.

TUNING THE RIG AT SEA

Try to pick a day with a steady, moderate breeze of 10-15 knots as this will give you the proper amount of pressure on the rig to property tune it for all conddions.

1)Sail close-hauled on a tack, at about 15-20 degrees of heel, and check the slackness of the leeward upper shroud. If ft is loose enough to swing in over a l' arc, tighten the uppers even turns to eliminate excess slack.

TIGHTEN ONLY THE LEEWARD SHROUD TO PREVENT STRIPPING THE TURNBUCKLE THREAD!!

2)Sight up the mainsail luff groove. What are you looking for? Check the straightness of the mast through the shroud attachment points to ensure they line up with the masthead. Why? You've centered the masthead so use this as the point of reference. Chances are likely the mast will be sagging off to leeward and to straighten ft will require working from the bottom up. In other words, begin with the lower shrouds, then move to the intermediates.

3)Sail along on a tack, check the sag, tack to make an adjustment, then immediately tack back to determine if more adjustment is needed. Continue this process on both tacks until the lower panel (deck level to first spreader) of the mast is aligned with the masthead.

4) Next, adjust the diagonal shrouds (or upper intermediate shrouds) in the same manner until the upper mast aligns with the masthead. You will find that little pressure is needed on the intermediates to straighten the upper portion.

CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL RIGGING SPECIALIST OR SAIL-

MAKER TO HELP YOU TUNE THE RIG.

5)Pin the shroud turnbuckles and tape thoroughly to prevent your beautiful tuning job from getting out of line! Cover the tumbuckles with a shroud boot.

After sailing In good breeze for 10-15 hours be sure to re-tighten your rig as you will have to compensate for stretch.